ISLAY BIRDING TOUR REPORT 8th – 15th February 2025

Participants:- Adrian Bradley, Chris Brock, Charles Kingdon, Brian Leeman, Andy & Jan Morrison and Adrian Roach

Tour Guide for Norfolk Birding – Chris Mills

OVERVIEW OF THE TOUR

This was a 6-day winter tour to Islay, off the west coast of Scotland in Argyll.

The tour offered a great opportunity to see iconic species such as Golden and White-tailed eagles, vast flocks of Barnacle & Greenland White-fronted Geese, plus Hen harrier, numerous Whooper Swans, Chough, Twite, fantastic numbers of Great Northern Diver wintering sea duck and grebes! We also caught up with Cackling Goose and Red-breasted Goose. We stayed in East & West Cross Cottages comfortable, warm and ideally positioned near Bridgend overlooking Loch Indaal bay. This provided 6 rooms with 2 of them en-suite, the others with 3 shared bathrooms. Barnacle Geese were visible in thousands and also hosted a Cackling Goose on one of our morning scans. Also 2 White-tailed Eagle, a male Hen Harrier and most importantly the only Moorhen of the trip!

Day One – Saturday 8^th February 2025
After collecting the group from Notts and Yorkshire we all headed North to an overnight stop at Premier Inn, Glasgow airport. We had a good evening meal and then had an early night ready for an early start the next morning.

Day Two – Sunday 9^th February 2025 – We departed at 7am for the steady drive to Kennacraig, The first birding were from minibus windows and during several roadside stops. At Arrochar there was roosting flock of 35 Oystercatcher, Redshank our first Hooded Crows and a drumming Great spotted Woodpecker. Our next stop was a good one at Clachan on Loch Fyne, stand out birds were a very fine group of 6 Goosander, a Kingfisher and a pair of Dippers that performed well under the river bridge.

We stopped off at Tarbert harbour just short of the ferry, had a hearty breakfast and then enjoyed several very obliging Black Guillemots in crisp full black summer plumage, brilliant red legs and gapes. Also wildfowl with Red-breasted Mergansers, Little Grebe, Mute Swan, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Shag & Cormorant and several smart Hooded Crows.

A final brief roadside before the ferry gave us the first of several Greenshank of the trip, with a party of 8 Common Redshank. At Kennacraig harbour we had time for a bit more birding before boarding the ferry. There were at least 2 Great Northern Divers, a single Red-throated Diver, 2 Goldeneye, 12 Red-breasted Merganser, 2 Black Guillemot, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Redshank and a single Greenshank.

The crossing produced good numbers with 17+ Great Northern Divers, 5 Red-throated Divers, 2 Kittiwake, Common Guillemot, Black Guillemot, lots of Shag and Great Cormorant. Just as we were reaching Port Ascaig we got on toa distant Golden Eagle, better views were to follow during the trip. We also noted lots of distant Red Deer on the hillsides.

Once on Islay we stopped off to take in our first flocks of Barnacle & Greenland White-fronted Geese on the way to the accommodation, also a flock of 100 Fieldfare and 30 Redwing, these thrushes were a feature throughout the tour. We got settled into the accommodation, we took a visit to the Co-op supermarket for breakfast and packed lunch provisions and rounded the day off with a pleasant evening meal in the Bridgend Hotel.

Day Three – Monday 10^th February 2025 – After breakfast, the birding started instantly with, Song Thrush and Mistle Thrush singing from nearby trees, whilst c1500 Barnacle Geese were on the shoreline in front of our accommodation. They had departed a few minutes later and out on the shoreline, were two large looking brown ‘blobs’. I dropped the scope on to them, and as I had expected they were 2 White-tailed Eagles, a called over the rest of the group and they enjoyed their first views of this iconic Eagle. We also had our first Hen Harrier, a ringtail distantly over the hillside towards Bowmore.

Winds were fairly light, and it was an obvious decision to head to the head of Loch Indaal, where we were soon feasting our eyes on a super mix of seabirds! First up were several 2 Long-tailed Ducks, soon joined by several more, at least 15 Long-tailed Ducks. Also 5+ Great Northern Diver and several Red-throated Divers a little further out. It was also the perfect morning for picking out the diminutive Slavonian Grebes and we counted around 12 Slavonian Grebes in the bay.

Another vantage point from Blackrock gave us more Red-breasted Mergansers, a super raft of c70 Common Eider, c60 Common Scoter. Along the shoreline and there was a group of Dunlin, Bar-tailed Godwit and Ringed Plover. Plus, a small group of Pale-bellied Brent Geese. By late morning, we had succeeded in seeing a good range of the seaduck, divers and grebes in the bay and then a message from Henry Wyn-Jones, he had just seen the Red-breasted Goose with Barnacles at Gruinart Flats! So, we headed over to the spot he’d seen it from. Once at the Eastern end of the flats, near Craigens there was an obvious flock of c1000 Barnacle Geese! I started scanning from the righthand end and was fortunate and pleased to see the Red-breasted Goose still present and showing fairly well, albeit a little distant. Everyone feasted their eyes on it, as it appeared and disappeared amongst the Barnacle Geese and the hollows of the field.

The weather conditions were still good, a steady breeze, bright if slightly overcast. I headed towards the NW end of the island, a good area for Eagles. We set up scopes overlooking a ridge, no Eagles initially but we were soon enjoying a group of Red-billed Chough. We wandered to the shoreline where around 9 Chough, were wheeling around enjoying the breeze and feeding in the dunes. The shore had a nice group of 18 Great Ringed Plover feeding in the bay. We wandered back to our vantage point and a couple of Ravens were up and giving a little display, on the other side of the road, an Eagle was spotted high in the sky, an immature Golden Eagle, we watched as it gained height becoming more distant. Fortunately, that wasn’t the end of the ‘Eagle’ show! Charles suddenly yelled out “Eagle” and we all turned to see a super adult Golden Eagle soaring along the ridge, it wasn’t too long before it was joined by another adult Golden Eagle. These birds stayed up and showed well on and off for the next twenty minutes up and down along the ridge, a much-improved experience on the distant bird from yesterday.

We now headed to RSPB Gruinart for a slightly late lunch in the centre, where you can enjoy the Barnacle Geese flocks whilst eating our pack up. After lunch up we visited the RSPB viewing platform, that gives a good view across the freshwater pools, flats and the shallow sea-pools and shore of Gruinart bay.

There was a flock of Golden Plover, lots of Teal, some Wigeon, Shelduck, plus c20 Whooper Swan, c40 Pintail, c20 Shoveler, Snipe, Redshank, Curlew and 3 Little Egrets, the latter a species I didn’t use to encounter here a few years ago. We were spoilt for White-tailed Eagle, with at least 5 individuals being seen including 3 White-tailed Eagle sitting on the ground together squabbling over some carrion. We walked back to the Visitor centre, a Goldcrest called from the vegetation.        

As we started to drive back along the flats, there was good numbers of Barnacle Geese parallel to the roadside and we joined a couple of other birders, to look through them. A Scottish birder and a visiting birder mentioned they had seen a possible ‘Cackling Goose’. After a little scanning I found the bird, I initially thought the bird looked a little large alongside the Barnacles and paler than ones I had seen before. However, the head pattern and neckline looked good. I managed to get the camera on to it and fired off some shots. Some consultation with the Islay WhatsApp group and Tom Lowe confirmed it was a genuine ‘hutchinsii’ Cackling Goose. Also a new bird on to the island, the other bird seen recently at the Southern end of the island being a darker and smaller individual.

This rounded off a great first full day on Islay, in fact some of the group remarked on “What we were going to do for the rest of the trip!?” We headed this evening again to the Bridgend Hotel and had another good meal, before returning to the accommodation.

© Adrian Roach – Great northern Diver, Redwing, Fieldfare, Hen Harrier & Chough.

Day Four – Tuesday 11^th February 2025 – Today the weather was much windier, with a cold SE wind and overcast! We headed out after breakfast to the North of Bridgend, we were soon watching a nice mixed flock of thrushes from the minibus, at least 100 Redwing, 25 Fieldfare, a group of around 10 Song Thrush, a single Blackbird and a Mistle Thrush. We were on the lookout for raptors as we headed over the higher ground, but just Buzzards appeared. We made another stop for a group of 8 terrestrial feeding Reed Bunting. Another short stop was fortuitous, as it produced the only Grey Wagtail of the trip, feeding near a beck at Coullabus. Nearby two Brown Hares were sat close by, giving point blank views, views like this of the Hares were pretty much a daily occurrence.

We next headed back West again and took a walk around Loch Skerrols. The woods were relatively quiet in the cold windy conditions, though 2 Long-tailed Tits obliged, Goldcrest was heard and several Siskin flew overhead. The Loch held 5 Teal, 2 Cormorant, surprisingly no diving ducks, but 2 Goosander were a nice surprise! An even bigger surprise was to discover 2 White-tailed Eagles on the West shoreline feeding on a carcass, probably the remains of goose or duck! The conditions were still tricky, with occasional shower, cold ESE wind, so I headed for Bridgend Woollen Mill with shelter, the woods and river and always birds at the feeders!

A quick check of the river on arrival proved fruitful with a Dipper perched downstream on the rocks, whilst a flock of c40 Chaffinch was feasting on bird seed, along with Blue, Great & Coal Tits. Eventually we could hear a Treecreeper calling but it refused to show visually.

I next headed us to Ballimartin, en-route we checked a large flock of c1500 Barnacles, but nothing out of the ordinary with them. At Ballimartin, another group of mixed winter thrushes, whilst several Common Buzzard, a pair of Ravens were over the nearby ridge, and 2 Chough played in the sky on the strong breeze. It was now lunchtime, and a drizzle had again started and it was bitterly cold! We decided our packed lunches would be best taken back at the accommodation, where we could thaw out and revitalise before heading back out for the afternoon! After lunch from in front of the accommodation a quick scan of the low tideline revealed 350 Bar-tailed Godwit, 90 Red Knot, 150 Dunlin, 6 Ruddy Turnstone & out in the bay 2 Goldeneye.

We then headed for the East side of Gruinart shore and the road to Killinallan, which I figured would give us a bit of respite from the biting ESE wind! We find a reasonable spot to view from, the tide was on the turn, so the shorebirds and duck were slowly being pushed our way and into view. There was a plethora of birds to work though on the mudflats and pools, with 100+ Shelduck, 200 Wigeon, 20 Pintail, 30 Teal, 6 Goldeneye, 10 Red-breasted Merganser, 40 Oystercatcher, 150 Golden Plover, 5 Ringed Plover, 50 Lapwing, 25 Curlew, 150 Bar-tailed Godwit, Little Egret and Grey Heron. Nearby also Stonechat, Reed Bunting and Meadow Pipit.

As the tide moved in and we scanned, a large raptor was noted above the far shoreline, with scopes trained, it was a young Golden Eagle! As it soared up Jan picked up a second bird, another immature Golden Eagle, it was suddenly all action as these birds interacted, and a ringtail Hen Harrier appeared behind them, then a male Hen Harrier! This intense 20 minutes rounded the day off nicely! We set back for the accommodation, for a relaxing hour with hot mugs of tea after a chilly old day!

We took the option of a takeout curry from Bowmore tonight along with a beer or glass of wine back at the at the accommodation.

Day Five Wednesday 12^th February 2025 – As we exited from the accommodation this morning, we were greeted by a large group of c2000 Barnacle Geese still roosting on the shoreline of Loch Indaal. We knew that yesterday one of the Cackling Geese had been seen in this area, so it made sense to check through them carefully. I set up the scope a little before the rest of the group, and was amazed when within a minute of working less than a quarter of the flock – I had the Cackler! The Cackling Goose was sat roosting nicely out on the front of the flock, we all got decent scope views, and it was nice for everyone to get another look and reinforce their views from the Monday.

We were just leaving the accommodation track when a male Hen Harrier appeared hunting low across the ground towards the Loch. I can never resisting chasing after the adult grey males, such stunning birds! We secured nice and as is often the case, tantalising views, before it headed off inland and disappeared.

The weather was drier today, but still a biting SE wind, so we now headed down to Ardnave, with the view to heading out for a decent walk to Machair bay. Our drive was stopped dead, halfway along the road to Ardnave as an immature Golden Eagle appeared at eye level and close! There was a rush for cameras, and a few pics were grabbed but it never really slowed down before moving over the cliff edge. It now appeared to have dropped down to the shore, a quick look through the scope showed an ‘Eagle’ on a corpse on the shoreline, we walked stealthily down to the graveyard that kept us hidden from view. The Eagle was still present though this bird was an immature White-tailed Eagle! This was shortly joined by a second White-tailed Eagle! Whilst watching these, we realised the original Golden Eagle was soaring further down the cliff edge…another amazing morning of raptor action!

We eventually parked up at Ardnave Point, and set out for the circular walk via Machair bay. Ardnave Loch held our first Tufted Ducks of the trip, also 2 Goldeneye and 5 close confiding Whooper Swan. The walk out to the bay was relatively quiet with the nagging cold wind keeping passerines quiet, a few Reed Bunting, Fieldfare and Redwing.

We reached the dunes overlooking the rocky shoreline of Machair bay and dropped down to get out of the wind. It was comfortable now and we spent some time searching with the scopes. There was a good selection of shorebirds, 20 Oystercatcher, 12 Ringed Plover, 40 Curlew, 25 Bar-tailed Godwit, 5 Redshank, Turnstone, a fly-by Greenshank, 4 Grey Plover – were new and welcome to our trip list. Though initially I couldn’t dig out the hoped for Purple Sandpipers, we moved position and set out gain scanning. Eventually I found a Purple Sandpiper out on the far rocks, and as is often the case a second one emerged soon after! We headed back over the dunes, stopping for several Chough on the way.

It was now early afternoon, and we took the opportunity of having packed lunches in the RSPB Gruinart VC, respite from the wind! After lunch we headed for Loch Gorm area, we stopped for a nice group of around 25 Skylark, plus a flock of 25 Redwing and 5 Song Thrush. As we were watching these a raptor went tearing long the Loch shore, I jumped out quickly and fortunately it reversed and then perched up on a post, albeit for all of 20 seconds, a super grey male Merlin! A circuit of the rest of Loch didn’t turn up too much else and we headed back for hot tea, having had a very satisfying days birding!

We headed into Bowmore tonight for an evening meal at the Lochside Hotel. Though birds and birding hadn’t quite done for the day as a beautiful Barn Owl was picked out in the minibus headlights! I reversed back and amazingly it sat in full view at around 2m from the passenger window, everyone oohing over it, we left still perched in peace looking for its own evening snack!

Day Six – Thursday 13^th February 2025. The biting SE wind was back again today with vengeance, at least it was dry, if overcast. We set off North and headed to Loch Finlaggan, where the hollow and the North side offered up some protection. 

My targets I had in mind were 1-2 species that were still missing off our list. It was a slow start, but bit by bit birds appeared, with Siskin flying over, a nice flock of c40 Goldfinch dancing around and a flock of c30 thrushes mainly Fieldfare, but a few Redwing, and several Song Thrush. Out on the Loch Adrian B picked out Teal, Tufted Duck and Goldeneye, and c800 Barnacle Geese arrived on the shore. A ringtail Hen Harrier suddenly appeared close but past quickly by!

Soon a White-tailed Eagle appeared, joined by another adult, these two adults then circled for what seemed an age, effortlessly soaring overhead on the strong breeze, not a flap in 15 minutes! We then heard the distinctive metallic ‘chip, chip’ call of Crossbills, but they were in flight and 1-2 people saw them briefly as they flew over the forest. Then a vocal Redpoll did a similar thing, we continued to scan the tops of the forest and eventually it paid off, a male Crossbill was sat atop, one of the trees in the forest, we scoped it and it was briefly joined by a second. Another Redpoll flew over calling, and we waited to see if anymore Crossbills appeared. We then watched a distant Golden Eagle circling; this connected us fortunately to the only Kestrel of the tour also soaring high in the same area of view. Satisfied with our nice haul and some additions to the list secured, we started loading back into the minibus to depart. But I had everyone back out as another Crossbill landed on one of the much closer conifers, typically by the time we were all out it had flown again!

We now headed to Bunnhabhain, in search of Otters, a Golden Eagle appeared briefly as we headed there, but didn’t reappear. It wasn’t quite so sheltered here, and we used the minibus as a windbreak. We lasted around an hour, though no Otters appeared there was a nice group of 12 Black Guillemot, a close Shag diving and fishing with another 20 Shag out on rocks, 2 Great Northern Diver, Grey Heron and Siskin perched on the trees behind us.

It was late morning and with a poor forecast for Friday, our last day I decided to head South to The Oa. We headed initially to the RSPB car park and had our lunch there, but it was relatively quiet, no sign of any Twite, but good views of an immature White-tailed Eagle and Rock Doves and a Raven flew over. After lunch I headed us round to Kinnabus farm, the other preferred area for the Twite. I could pretty much hear the Twite on arrival, and we walked up to the farm, and found them in the trees and the field there. Eventually they were coming to feed on seed under mesh cages put out by the RSPB and we head really good views of around c35 Twite.

We now headed up the SE coastal road past Ardbeg and Lagavulin distilleries. As we headed East, a brief stop gave us nice flock of c140 Lapwing and a smart male Hen Harrier whipping quickly over the moorland.

Our first proper stop was a big seed feeder provided by a Keeper near Kildalton, this spot rarely fails to deliver – and it didn’t today! At least 5 Yellowhammers were showing really well along with c20 Chaffinch, 10 House Sparrow, 7 Collared Dove,2 Rock Dove, several Dunnock and Blackbird. Nearby we watched a pair of Hen Harriers, dancing over the moors presumably pair bonding, as they circled together.

We now headed back to Port Ellen, and stopped off in town – to look, yes indeed – for Greenfinch! Another birder had seen 1-2 there in the morning. Apparently quite scarce these days on Islay, as luck would have it no sooner had we got out the minibus and a Greenfinch flew over our heads calling. We took chance to scan the bay and there was a least 2 Great Northern Divers, Shag and Eider, one of the Great Northern Divers close, affording nice scope views.

It had been a good day, the weather was starting to worsen and the light fade, so we headed back to the accommodation for teas and coffees, before heading out for a Fish and chip supper later.

Day Seven – Friday 14^th February 2025. We started our last full day of birding on the island with another look at Loch Indaal bay from the Bowmore area, the wind had dropped a bit and it was reasonably pleasant, if still overcast. There was a reasonable spread of wildfowl and waders, with the highlights being 2 Long-tailed Duck, 8 Goldeneye, 8 Red-breasted Merganser and 10 Common Scoter. On the shoreline there was again another good gathering of shorebirds, 200 Knot, 100 Dunlin, c300 Bar-tailed Godwit, 10 Ringed Plover, a Golden Plover and 2 Greenshank were close by. Also, we finally got good clean views of Rock Pipit, having heard them several times close to the accommodation but failed to get decent views.

We next stopped off at Bridgend, and walked around Islay house, with the chance for the group to pop in at the Whisky shop and consider a bottle of one of the special malts! Birds here were very quiet, though I am sure the cold and SE wind were part of the reason.

We next tried for Linnets, unusually species that this year on Islay were in very short supply, but the there was no sign from where they had been seen yesterday, though there was a large flock of c1200 Barnacle Geese. These were soon flushed as a young White-tailed Eagle soared low over them and right over the minibus, followed a few minutes later by a second White-tailed Eagle!

Today we chose to take our main meal at lunchtime, a chance to warm up and sample the food at the Gaelic Centre, we then headed for Gartbreck bay. The rocky shore and sandy bay offered up more shorebirds and at last gave us our one commoner shorebird that was missing from the list – a group of 6 Sanderling were feeding alongside 15 Turnstone. Also 50 Golden Plover, a Grey Plover on the shore and 2000 Barnacle Geese and several small groups of Greenland White-fronted Geese in the adjacent fields. Plus a group of c30 Chaffinch.

It was now drizzling and this eventually turned to rain, as per the forecast. So we headed back to the accommodation late afternoon. There was still time for one more hurrah! I had been scanning the nearby pool regularly from the accommodation, I knew it might offer up a common UK bird, but scarce on Islay, but to date without success! However, as I sipped tea and scanned across through the murk, there was a Moorhen walking along the edge, I had everyone assembled quickly to add this one to the list!!

We had a relaxed evening in the accommodation, with just a few hours birding available the next morning before heading to the ferry.

Day Eight – Saturday 15^th February 2025. The weather was brighter this morning and the wind had dropped. I decided we would head to Loch Gorm and then on to Saligo bay. As we drove along the South shore of the Loch, 3 Bullfinches bounced along the hedge, we stopped and one of the males obliged sitting atop, feeding on one of the buds, result! Nearby fields held good flocks of Greenland White-fronted Geese and a good tight flock of c40 Skylark and 15 Chaffinch.

We then walked down to the beautiful Saligo bay, from here we could scan the sea and rthe dunes. From here we soon picked up several groups of Gannets moving South, followed by several small groups of Kittiwakes. On the sea there was at least 1 Red-throated and 2 Great Northern Diver and some distant Eider and a small group of Black Guillemot. As is always the way, after at last secured Sanderling yesterday a group of 5 Sanderling were also on the shore here this morning. Whilst the dunes behind us held 20 Curlew, 18 Ringed Plover and 2 Chough. As we were about to leave our daily White-tailed Eagle arrived heading across to the nearby hills, flushing several Geese flocks as it moved across the ground!

We headed back to the accommodation to pack and load the minibus, a check on the way past Gruinart flats of c1200 Barnacle Geese revealed nothing out of the ordinary this time!

We reached the ferry terminal at Port Askaig just before midday, and there was at least 3-4 Greenfinch in the trees, as previously commented these are noteworthy on Islay in current times. There was also 2-3 Black Guillemot in the harbour.

The early part of the sea crossing offered up a distant Eagle, probably our last White-tailed, and the first of many Great Northern Divers, plus 3 Red-throated Divers. Once out of the Sound of Jura, we headed in to grab our main meal of the day, before the long journey South. The birding was concluded as we entered the mouth of the Kintyre peninsula, here there were at least another 25+ Great Northern Divers, several Red-throated Diver and possibly a Black-throated Diver but views unfortunately were inconclusive, also Red-breasted Merganser and Goldeneye.

We reached Kennacraig ferry terminal at 3.30pm and it was a long steady journey home, but reached the drop off point in Notts around 10.45pm.

Mammals

Thanks again to the group that joined me it was a thoroughly enjoyable trip, with some great moments.

Chris Mills Norfolk Birding

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