Birdwatching Tour Report for North, South Uist & Mull

Day 1 Friday 17^th June

We departed from Norfolk around 0900am on the morning of Friday 17^th June, we collected clients from Lincs, Notts & Lancs en-route to our stopover just North of Glasgow, the miles soon passed by & we arrived at our stopover early evening.

We had an evening meal & an early night ready for leaving at 0530am the next morning.

Overnight Premier Inn North Glasgow.

Day 2 Saturday 18^th June

We left Glasgow at 0530 & stopped briefly in Fort William for a toilet break, & noted 15+ Siskin, Swift, House Martin, Rock Pipit & a few Hooded Crows.We continued our journey noting 6+ Raven, 3+ Buzzard en-route, we soon arrived in Kyle of Lochalsh & a fine brunch was enjoyed in the quayside café.

We headed onwards across Skye & arrived at Uig harbour for the ferry crossing. The birding commenced whilst we waited for the ferry to arrive. Scanning the bay soon produced a few goodies - 2 breeding plumage Red-throated Diver, 2 Black Guillemot, 10 Eider & a Red-breasted Merganser. A few scans of the nearby cliffs also proved productive with distant views of a ringtail Hen Harrier & Buzzard, then better views of a Peregrine crossing the bay. Hooded Crows were much in evidence scavenging along the shoreline.

We eventually boarded the ferry for the crossing from Uig to Lochmaddy, we soon took up position on the middle deck ready for seabirds from the crossing.

The crossing was productive, with the early part of the crossing producing many auks, Puffin & Razorbill the commonest, Guillemots less evident. Hundreds of Gannet were noted, a few Common Tern, Fulmar & then mainly Arctic Terns with a 100+ recorded. 1-2 more Black Guillemots were noted, as were Eider & Red-breasted Merganser. The real stars were a Great Skua, c1000 Manx Shearwater with one flock of 700 birds sitting on the water & for those with sharp eyes & steady scopes 6 Storm Petrels were a real bonus. Also noted was 3-4 Harbour Porpoise coming alongside the boat & diving out parallel to the bow wave.

We arrived at Lochmaddy late afternoon & just in time to but provisions for the next couple of days, the Lochmaddy shop has a good selection of food & domesticwares. But note the COOP at Sollas is actually open on Sundays -
contrary to what you maybe told! This COOP passes as a small Supermarket even by city-boy standards & has everything you will need!

Having secured breakfast & packed lunch provisions we settled in at our accommodation.

Evening Meal at Tigh Dearg Hotel - recommended.

We then headed off for an exploratory walk & drive around the Lochmaddy area.
The bay to the north is a marine nature reserve & we noted Buzzard, Common Tern, Red-breasted Merganser with chicks, Common Sandpipers plus a breeding plumage Red-throated Diver & an adult pale phase Arctic Skua flew over.

A circuitous drive north & west from 8PM - 10PM produced 4 hunting Short-eared Owl, a superb male Hen Harrier, 5 Buzzard, 4 Cuckoo, 2 Golden Plover & a pair of Wheatear with young.

Having had a great first & very full day we all headed off to catch up on some sleep.

Overnight Self Catering Cottage - Lochmaddy, North Uist

Day 3 Sunday 19^th June

With the weather forecast set fine & sunny, I suggested we make an early start & look for Corncrake, returning for breakfast mid-morning. This is the benefit of self-catering & not being tied to fixed breakfast times.

We all knocked down quick cups of tea & coffee down & were in the minibus by 0600am. We arrived at RSPB Balranald & the area I had previously seen Corncrake 10 days ago at 0630. The birds were in good voice, now it was a matter of pulling the vehicle in tight against the wall & sitting patiently in perfect silence. This is the best advice for technique I can give to anyone that wishes to see these elusive birds well - don’t get out your car, then sit tight & quietly.

The first views were brief as the Corncrake broke cover & moved tantalisingly in & out of the cover, 4 out of the the 6 of us saw the bird. Ten minutes later it proved much easier, there was a Corncrake sitting right out, throwing it’s head up & crex, crex, crexxing away - we all held our breath & few camera shutters also fired off some reasonable record shots. At least 6+ Corncrakes were calling in a fairly close area around the access road to the RSPB reserve.

Whilst awaiting this star bird, we were treated to a wonderful chorus of breeding waders, the Uists is unsurpassed in this respect - Snipe, Redshank, Lapwing, Dunlin, Ringed Plover all present in very good numbers, with chicks even running around on the roads. If you’ve never heard a Dunlin singing, or a Snipe drumming or seen them sitting on posts just a few feet from the vehicle - this is an experience you will never forget!

A quick stop and drive south of Balranald produced more close-ups of the breeding waders, also here a colony of Arctic Tern & a few Little Tern. Nearby, we located 9 Whooper Swan - a regular over summering species on the island.

We headed back to the accommodation very satisfied - and looking forward to a good breakfast, well brunch as it was!

In the afternoon we headed down to South Uist, & visited one of the Lochans on the east side of the main road, all these minor roads are worth exploring. 10 days ago I had seen a pair of Red-throated Divers in breeding plumage showing off very well. Sadly the breeding Divers were not present probably away fishing. However, we sat down & ate our lunches scanning the craggy mountains behind & in front of us - not long passed by when a Golden Eagle broke the horizon, & then a 2^nd Golden Eagle joined it - we had nice views intermittently over about an hour. A male Hen Harrier also put in a brief appearance, Wheatear & Raven were also noted.

We stopped off at another Loch on the east side of the road, scanning the Loch we located 6+ Black Guillemot, several Red-breasted Merganser & over the ridge 3 Golden Eagles put in an appearance!

We finished the day off on the west coast around Rubha Ardvule, a nice mixture of shorebirds were present, several in breeding plumage - 120 Bar-tailed Godwit, 40 Knot, 3 Dunlin, 19 Turnstone plus Shelduck, Tufted Duck with 11 duckling a couple of Fulmar & 20 + Arctic Terns showing at very close quarters. Several Wheatear were noted as well flashing there white rumps as we flushed them along the stone walls.

Evening Meal at Lochboisdale Hotel - good food & lovely views. En-route back we also noted another Hen Harrier a ringtail this time.

Overnight Self Catering Cottage - Lochmaddy, North Uist

Day 4 Monday 20^th June

A slightly later start today after the first hectic two days! We breakfasted at 0745 & left the accommodation around 0830. We headed south on to Benbecula, the drive south saw 3 more Short-eared Owls added to the list, another ringtail Hen Harrier plus a Sparrowhawk.

We arrived at some small pools & a breeding site for Red-necked Phalaropes, eventually after some searching a single Red-necked Phalarope was located on a large reed fringed pool to the south. But shortly after 2 more Red-necked Phalaropes eventually flew in & on to the Lochan right in front of us, providing lovely views of this beautiful & enigmatic wader.

We were again treated to the wonderful buzzing “white noise” sound of a Dunlin singing, this one was sat on a rock & we were able to scope this bird singing in it’s full chestnut, black & white regalia.

We then drove to one of the shoreline bays, where the kelp fringed shoreline held a nice party of 25 Sanderling, all in different stages of breeding plumage. The bay also held many Eider - 100+ with many females followed by crèches of young.

In the afternoon we headed back up to Balranald RSPB where we decided to do the beautiful circular walk around the headland, taking in the beautiful machair & rocky shoreline. The first section of machair produced 2-3 Corn Bunting, also good views of Twite perched, once at the shoreline - breeding Arctic Terns came in close, along with smart breeding Common Gulls, as well as one very strange completely albino bird! Out on the sea, scanning produced 3 Great Northern Diver of which 2 were in their smart breeding plumage. Distant, but distinctive were the triangular, floppy fins of 3 Basking Sharks sailing up & down, plus closer in a Harbour Porpoise was noted. A distant Arctic Skua flew by, but then 2 Arctic Skuas much closer passed directly overhead giving excellent views, scattering a nice party of 30 Bar-tailed Godwit that were feeding on one of the beaches.

After the walk we arrived back at the centre had lunch & I had a good chat with old friend Stuart Taylor - now the assistant warden at RSPB Balranald. We then headed off further north to an Eagles eyrie I had visited previously.

We quickly found the pair of Golden Eagles, complete with one well matured chick that had managed to walk a few metres from nest. We were able to watch the chick tearing up some scraps, the adults mainly sitting around not far away. We were distracted by first a hunting Short-eared Owl & then a pair of Hen Harriers interacting. Just to round things off nicely a beautiful breeding plumage Golden Plover wandered into view.

The journey back to the accommodation produced another male Hen Harrier, an Arctic Skua & Cuckoo, & the usual gatherings of Ravens & Hooded Crows.

Evening Meal - Tigh Dearg Hotel - recommended.
Overnight Self Catering Cottage - Lochmaddy, North Uist

Day 5 Tuesday 21^st June

A pre-breakfast walk & search for Otter for 3 of the group & a lie in for the others! They didn’t miss any Otters - these were the one species that was proving elusive! We did add Stonechat, a species that has become scarce after 2 harsh winters have reduced their numbers.

After breakfast we headed south again searching several areas around the Loch Portain area - on the water was a breeding plumage Red-throated Diver, plus several Red-breasted Merganser & several Common Sandpiper Overhead we had wonderful views of 2 Merlin mobbing a Golden Eagle. A pair of Red-throated Diver flew high overhead, along with 2 Arctic Skuas - one dark phase & 1 light phase. A short walk along the heather covered hillside produced great views of pink flushed male Redpoll, plus 1-2 more flying around & another pair of Stonechats.

We lunched then took a steady walk of around 4 miles down a track that I had previously seen White-tailed Sea eagle. The start of the walk produced several nice Wheatear, plus 2 more pairs of Stonechat, a male & ringtail Hen Harrier swept past in front of us. We discovered a pair of Twite feeding young, & watched them come back & forth several times. Three Swift overhead were the first seen since our arrival on the island. We eventually found a sheltered spot out of the strong breeze & scanned the horizon, a distant eagle soared & when it eventually turned side on, it was clearly a White-tailed Sea Eagle, the broad plank-like wings & short tail evident. It wasn’t the best views, but I was safe in the knowledge that the group would have much better views when we reached Mull.

The walk back added another Golden Plover, stood proud on the hillside it was delivering a single sad plaintive call slightly different to the flight call I am so familiar with in the winter.

We had another lovely evening meal in the Tigh Dearg Hotel - recommended.
Overnight Self Catering Cottage - Lochmaddy, North Uist

Day 6 Wednesday 22^nd June

Today we had just the morning before catching the ferry back to Skye. Having seen all the target species, with the exception of Black-throated Diver, we spent a couple of hours searching the bays along the northern shorelines of North Uist. We had a good selection of waders, adding Greenshank & Grey Plover to the growing list. Also lots of Curlew, several Arctic Tern, 1 Little Tern, an Arctic Skua, plus great views of Twite sheltering & feeding youngsters.

We caught the 11.15 ferry to Uig, the crossing was memorable for the terrific views of Manx Shearwater, with many choosing to shearwater right alongside the boat providing fantastic views, probably around c600 Manx Shearwater were noted. No Petrels sadly this time but again lots of auks, Arctic tern, plus single Arctic & Great Skua.

We stopped off en-route again at Kyle of Lochalsh & enjoyed tea/coffee & scones.

A short stop south of Kyle of Lochalsh produced 4+ Spotted Flycatcher, but despite the habitat being perfect no Grey Wagtails or Dippers, both apparently affected by the severe winter freeze with numbers much reduced.

Evening meal at Strontian Hotel - reasonable but nothing special!
Overnight accommodation Bed & Breakfast, Strontian, Ardnamurchan

Day 7 Thursday 23rd June

A pre-breakfast walk for three of the group this morning - produced good views of a pair of Whinchat, plus numerous c20 Redpoll, drumming Snipe & lots of Meadow Pipits.

After breakfast we headed for the ferry crossing to Mull, but we stopped off in the village of Strontian and were rewarded with good views of a singing Grasshopper Warbler, sitting out on a fence post! Another quick stop, provided nice views of a singing Wood Warbler. The short ferry crossing produced little of note. Once on to Mull I headed south to follow a circuitous route that I expected to yield most of the target birds. The first stop produced a couple of Whinchats calling & showing well, the 2^nd stop provided nice views of a male Hen Harrier hunting. Another search of a known location failed to reveal any Otters, these were doing a fair job of eluding us!

The next stop was for White-tailed Sea Eagle & where I had stood just 10 days previously watching the eyrie. We were in luck, the two chicks were obvious & both adult White-tailed Sea Eagle were perched in trees nearby. Shortly after arrival one of the adults got up & took to the air, passing right over our heads - complete with the oohs & ahhs of appreciation. The 2^nd bird then took to the skies & just for scale a Buzzard decided to hassle him, it did look tiny alongside the huge White-tailed sea-eagle. We watched them climb on a thermal until they were just dots in the sky. One dot was much bigger than the other!!

We headed on stopping off beneath some awesome, steep craggy cliffs. I was hoping for Peregrine, but these failed to emerge, but we did see 2 more White-tailed Sea Eagles!

We next stopped off & walked a track alongside an inland Loch and birded along a short walk of around 3 miles. The scenery was matched by some excellent birds, 3-4 Redstart, 2 Treecreeper , 2 Crossbills & 2 very obliging Tree Pipit were seen in the wooded section. Further on along the Loch, Common Sandpipers seemed to be on every last bit of the shoreline. The ridges adjacent to the Loch were very productive with a Merlin mobbing an adult White-tailed Sea Eagle, 3 adult Golden Eagles & a Sparrowhawk adding to a very healthy list of raptors from the afternoon’s stroll.

Evening meal at Ben view Hotel - very good.
Overnight accommodation Bed & Breakfast, Strontian, Ardnamurchan

Day 8 Friday 24^th June

Having seen all the target birds on Mull yesterday, we decided after breakfast to explore the local area around the Ardnamurchan peninsula. A short drive to the head of Loch Shiel and a stop off in a likely looking spot, producd the eventual Dipper we had all been hoping for, sitting on the rocks mid-stream we had nice scope views from the river bridge. A wander around the Loch Shiel area may produce Black-throated Diver, but we couldn’t find them today. We did however see several Red-breasted Merganser, plus two new species for the trip Bullfinch & Great Spotted Woodpecker. We then visited the Arundale NR & walked along the river we fortunate to get lovely views of several Pearl-bordered Frittilary. Several Tree Pipits were noted, plus a pair of Whinchat feeding a youngster, a Crossbill flew over, another Grasshopper Warbler was heard & a mix of commoner woodland species were noted - Willow Warbler notably abundant & a Garden warbler singing.

In the afternoon we walked along the river in Strontian convinced we could find a Grey Wagtail, we walked a 2 mile stretch of perfect habitat - no sign, this species has clearly been hit very badly by the last winters weather. We did note 12+ Spotted Flycatcher, 2 Goldcrest & heard the same Grasshopper warbler from the previous day.

We then searched the shoreline alongside the south side of the Loch - we noted 8 Goosander, 1 Greenshank, 5+ Common Sandpiper, pair of Red-breasted Merganser, Ringed Plover & Common Tern. I decided we would take an early evening meal, & then return after 9PM for another Otter search. I felt sure that at this time of day in this perfect habitat we would manage to locate one, as I had seen them here previously.

We had another good meal at Ben View, then drove very slowly along the shoreline. I stopped to scan the kelp & suddenly realised I was staring straight at an Otter, staring straight back at me. Some of the group managed to get straight on to it, a couple of the others on the wrong side of the vehicle struggled until it started swimming. Nobody need have worried! I parked up another 100m downshore & the Otter came out on the shoreline, rolling around scent marking & providing wonderful views for everyone.
A fitting end to our wonderful trip!

Overnight accommodation in Bed & Breakfast Strontian

Day 9 (Saturday)

Complete with a packed breakfast we travelled back to England said our farewells & dropped everyone off.

Tour Prices 2012

Tour cost is £700
Single Supplement £60
Deposit £100

Group size will be up to 7 plus Chris Mills as guide

What's included in your Outer Hebrides Tour

* 3 nights B&B accommodation & 5 nights Self catering accommodation.
All transport from England and all ferry crossings from Skye to Uist & Ardnamurchan to Mull

* Guidance from Chris Mills professional guide

What's not included in your Outer Hebridean Birding Tour holiday price
* Insurance, drinks and other items of a personal nature.
*Evening meals & packed lunches*

Please note: all itineraries are given as a guide only. Actual holiday content may vary according to the judgement of the guide and elements beyond our control (eg weather)