Double click to edit
DAY THREE 21st December 2004 Camp Forkatail0730 - 1000
Bhakrakhot & Forest to North1000 - 1300
Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730

We had decided to take things easy in the first couple of days and to that effect we spent the morning birding similar areas to yesterday morning - but continued to add new species to the list.
Many of the species from yesterday were seen again - but additional species today were STREAK-THROATED WOODPECKER, SCALY BELLIED WOODPECKER, GREATER YELLOWNAPE, BLACK-WINGED CUCKOO SHRIKE,& ASIAN BARRED OWLET.

After a “ brunch” we headed up North of the campsite again, but this time continued past the village, following the footpath we eventually reached a good area of secondary forest, with a fast running stream down a wooded hillside to our right.
This area yielded pulses of birds in tight feeding flocks, birds such as 5 GREY HOODED WARBLER, 1 STREAKED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 BLUE WINGED MINLA, 20 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, 3 TICKELLS WARBLER, 1 RUSTY-CHEEKED SCIMITAR BABBLER, 3 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 3 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1 RUFOUS BELLIED EAGLE, 1 GREAT BARBET, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 HUMES WARBLER, 1 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE,& 20+ LEMON-RUMPED WARBLER.

We returned to camp had a late afternoon cup of tea, and walked the area east of the camp again, adding new species such as HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK & RUFOUS-GORGETED FLYCATCHER.  Kunwar showed us Leopard scats, and we found leaves still holding the animals urine from where the animal had been territory scent-marking. Following the tracks, we found an area of ground that had been disturbed, and lots of deer hair - Kunwar explained that this was clearly a kill from the previous evening.

OVERNIGHT AT CAMP FORKTAIL ALL MEALS INCLUSIVE



DAY FOUR: 22nd December 2004 Forktail - Kosi River 0700 - 1200
Machore Mountain road1230 - 1600


The day started with some early excitement, Ghosh from Wild World India whom organised our trip had arrived just before light and as he approached the camp he had seen a wild Indian Elephant. Breakfast was temporarily abandoned as we searched the area.
Unfortunately despite hearing the movements of the elephant we were unable to see it - incredibly! We did add couple more birds to the list in the form of BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE & MAROON ORIOLE.
After breakfast we headed out in a Suzuki jeep with Ghosh our host and Kunwar our guide. Our first stop was the Kosi River area which produced 5 WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 12 PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1PR @ NEST BROWN DIPPER, SPOTTED FORKTAIL, 2 WHITE-BROWED WAGTAIL, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 ROOSTING BROWN FISH OWL, 1PR @ NEST PALLAS’S FISH EAGLE, 80 SLATY-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 GOLDEN LEAFBIRD, 20 SCARLET MINIVET, 10 COMMON WOODSHRIKE.

We continued our journey up into the mountains via the Machore mountain road, it was noticeable even since our last visit 3 years ago how few Vultures were present, but we did see 2 HIMLAYAN GRIFFON VULTURES & 13 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURES.

The views along this road towards the top are breathtaking, and the distant backdrop of the snow-capped Himalayas offers a fantastic perspective. We made several stops, the weather was cloudy and cool and this hampered our search for some of the altitude species such as accentors. However, we had a pleasant mix of birds including 1 LITTLE SWIFT, 2 RED-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE, 1 STEPPE EAGLE, 2 RUFOUS-BELLIED EAGLE, 6 COMMON ROSEFINCH, 1 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 ASHY DRONGO,4 BLUE-CAPPED REDSTART AND 2 BLUE BREASTED QUAIL.

OVERNIGHT AT CAMP FORKTAIL ALL MEALS INCLUSIVE


DAY FIVE: 23rd December 2004  Corbett NP Bajranei Gate0700 - 1600


The next morning we breakfasted early and were heading through the Corbett National Park gates at 7am, our efforts today were mainly from the jeep in the Bajranei area.
There are rest areas in the park and here you can get out and wander to bird. Everyone’s senses were heightened knowing this was our first really good chance of seeing TIGER, our previous visit to India, taking in Ranthambhore and Corbett had only resulted in near misses and lots of pugmarks.

The first birds were en-route to and at the main rest area just inside the park, best birds here were, 5 FULVOUS-BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMLAYAN FLAMEBACK, 10+BLACK-RUMPED FLAMEBACK, 3 COPPERSMITH BARBET, 1 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 1 ALEXANDRINE PARAKEET,1 ASIAN BARRED OWLET, 3 JUNGLE OWLET, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 CHANGEABLE HAWK EAGLE, 2 GOLDEN FRONTED LEAFBIRD it was a cold morning and a torpid WRYNECK, allowed me to approach it down to 2.0m.

As we continued through the park several times we tracked fresh tiger pug marks, but still failed to see any tigers! The bird list continued with the pick of birds being 1 BAY-BACKED SHRIKE, 20+ BLACK-HEADED ORIOLE, 3 LESSER RACKET TAILED DRONGO, 1 SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, 5+ CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTCHATCH, 2 WHITE-TAILED NUTHATCH, 12+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 2 OLIVE-BACKED PIPIT, 2 WHISKERED YUHINA, 1 WHITES THRUSH, 1 GREY FRANCOLIN (heard only) plus many of the commoner species.

Our mammal list got well under way with 30+ HANUMAN LANGUR, 50+ RHESUS MACAQUE, 4 WILD BOAR, 20+ MUNTJAC, 8+ SAMBAR DEER, 2+ PALM SQUIRREL, 50+ CHITAL  and at least 4 different sets of tiger pugmarks - but no tiger.


OVERNIGHT AT CAMP FORKTAIL ALL MEALS INCLUSIVE



DAY SIX: 24th December 2004 Camp Forktail0700 - 0900
Bhanghat Fishing Lodge1000-1700

The short walk from the tent to the dining area produced close views of BLACK FRANCOLIN, and rather more impressive were a stunning RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA & 2 RUFOUS ORGETED FLYCATCHER.

After breakfast we were dropped off from the jeep and we then walked a 3 mile descent  to our destination for this afternoon and evening at Bhanghat fishing Lodge. This lodge is owned by Ghosh of WildWorld India, it hosts a wonderful small stone cottage in the most fantastic setting of forested mountains and the fast running Ramganga river. The birding was just as good, 5 PLUM-HEADED PARAKEET, 1 LARGE TAILED NIGHTJAR, 1 RIVER LAPWING, 1 PALLAS’S FISH EAGLE, 2 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BLACK STORK, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 WHITE BELLIED DRONGO, 1 BROWN DIPPER, 1 BLACK REDSTART, 6+ WHITE-CAPPED WATER REDSTART, 5+ PLUMBEOUS WATER REDSTART, 1 SPOTTED FROKTAIL, 2 CHESTNUT-BELLIED NUTHATCH, 4 VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, & 1 WALLCREEPER.

The river is famous for Mahseer, and Mahseer angling, encouraged by Ghosh to have a go I tried my luck for a few hours, but despite being able to see a shoal containing some huge fish in the lovely clear water - my luck was out. However, I was accompanied on the rocks just 20m away by a LITTLE FORKTAIL, the first of the trip.

As we walked out of the valley in the early afternoon we had 80 SLATY HEADED PARAKEET, 1 EMERALD DOVE, 1 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 2 BLACK STORK, 4 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 1 WHITE THROATED FANTAIL.

During the rest of the afternoon we explored 3 ravines just off the road that leads to Camp Forktail, all of these areas held reasonable numbers of birds and are well worth exploring, these areas produced 1 GREATER FLAMEBACK, 3 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 4 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 1 SHIKRA, 2 GREEN MAGPIE, 2 GREY HEADED CANARY FLYCATCHER, RED-BILLED LEIOTHRIX,  2 MARRON ORIOLE, 1 YELLOW BREASTED FANTAIL, 5 BLUE-WINGED MINLA & 2 GREAT HORNBILL these being at the entrance to Camp Forktail.
OVERNIGHT AT BHANGAHT FISHING LODGE ALL MEALS INCLUSIVE




DAY SEVEN: 26th December 2004Lohachaur0800 - 1530
Camp Forktail 1530- 1700


Today we set off for Lohachaur a buffer zone of the Corbett NP, this enabled us to bird on foot in primary forest, best birds were 1 RED JUNGLEFOWL, 4 KALIJ PHEASANT, 1 LESSER YELLOWNAPE, 1 GREATER YELLOWNAPE, 1 HIMALAYAN FLAMEBACK, 5 GREEN MAGPIE, 3 LONG TAILED MINIVET,  20+ SCARLET MINIVET, 8 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE, 3 YELLOW BELLIED FANTAIL, 2 WHITE BROWED FANTAIL, 5+ ASHY DRONGO, 15 BRONZED DRONGO, 2 RUFOUS GORGETED FLYCATCHER, 2 TAIGA FLYCATCHER, 3 RUFOUS BELLIED NILTAVA, 1 WHITE RUMPED SHAMA, 10 CHESTNUT BELLIED NUTHATCH, 2 WHITE TAILED NUTHATCH, 3+ VELVET FRONTED NUTHATCH, 5+ ASHY BULBUL, 10+ LEMON RUMPED WARBLER, 20 WHITE CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 PUFF THROATED BABBLER, 1 MRS. GOULDS SUNBIRD, 4+ MAROON ORIOLE.

The track eventually reaches the Ramganga river and provides excellent panoramic views over the forest hills and resulted in additional species, overhead we noted 80 CRESTED TREE SWIFT, 10 ASIAN PALM SWIFT, 30 NEPAL HOUSE MARTIN, 10 EURASIAN GRIFFON VULTURE, 1 CRESTED SERPENT EAGLE, 1 ORIENTAL HONEY BUZZARD, 1 BONELLI’S EAGLE. The river added 2 CRESTED KINGFISHER, 2 RIVER LAPWING, 1 BLACK STORK, both species of WATER REDSTART, 1 LITTLE FORKTAIL.
We also had nice views of a small party of SMOOTH COATED OTTER, followed later by close up views of GOLDEN JACKAL, also the usual mix of CHITAL, SAMBAR, MUNTJAC, RHESUS MACAQUE & HANAMAN LANGHUR.

The day ended with one more species for the trip being added, when a ROSE-BREASTED PARAKEET flew over the campsite.

OVERNIGHT AT CAMP FORKTAIL ALL MEALS INCLUSIVE



























norfolkbirding with chris mills
Home Bird Pics Butterfly Pics Moth Pics Insect pics Mammal pics
                      
Field Guides
A must are:
Birds of the Indian Sub-continent - Grimmett, Inskipp & Inskipp
Field Guide to the mammals of the Indian Subcontinet - Gurung & Singh

Useful if possible:-
Birds of Nepal - Inskipp

Maps

If you intend travelling around India it maybe useful to buy a map, however we would recommend buying one when you get there. A general map of Uttaranchal at a scale of 1:400,000 is available from the Dhikala camp at Corbett NP, (very cheapless than £1:50) this would be of limited use for navigating. Also available here were much more detailed trekking maps, with far better scale.

Temperature

Temperatures varied from -1° C overnight to a very pleasant 22° C during the daytime. It is imperative to be prepared for cool daytime and cold overnight conditions at this time of the year. If you intend birding around Nainital or areas of similar altitude then expect overnight frost.


Flights

We booked a direct flight in October, departing 18th December from Heathrow to Delhi with British Airways. This was expensive at £905:00 per person; booking earlier would probably have saved us around £200 per ticket.
My advice is if you have to go during the main holiday periods, book your tickets as early as possible, as the tickets get more expensive nearer the departure date.


Accommodation

We stayed at three sites in all: Camp Forktail on the edge of Corbett NP for 7 nights, Dhikala Camp inside Corbett NP for 4 nights and Bharat fishing lodge for 2 nights, 1 night in a hotel in Delhi. During the Xmas to New Year period it is important to book accommodation in advance as the park and surrounding areas get very busy and accommodation tends to be fully booked. All of our trip was booked through Wild World India they organised collection and return to Delhi, all of our accommodation, transport,  access into Corbett NP and 3 meals per day plus a bird guide - I cannot recommend them highly enough. The cost for this element was just under £600 p/p which we considered fantastic value.
Accommodation at Camp Forktail Creek is permanent tents on concrete bases each is spacious with permanent double/twin beds and a set of drawers. To the rear of each tent is a smaller permanent tent complete with sink, flush toilet, and water. Boiling water for washing is brought to the tents twice a day. The site has no electrical lighting, but a wonderful campfire, dining area and small drinks bar - your birding starts the moment you peek out of the tent. Accommodation at Dhikala in the NP is basic brick built apartments - sleeping bags recommended, with a communal dining area. Accommodation at Bharat is in stone built rooms with bathrooms, these rooms have been built with much character and one of the most picturesque settings you will ever find.

Security

We had no problems at all, and the people are very friendly and helpful


Useful websites & email addresses

www.wildworldindia.com <http://www.wildworldindia.com>

www.campforktailcreek.com <http://www.campforktailcreeek.com>


info@campforktailcreek.com <mailto:info@campforktailcreek.com>

wwi@wildworldindia.com <mailto:wwi@wildworldindia.com>

Useful websites


DAILY ACCOUNT OF BIRDING


DAY ONE: 19th December 2004 Delhi - en route to Corbett NP1330 - 1900


We arrived at Delhi airport at around 1:00pm, we were collected by Sumantha Ghosh of Wildworld India and a driver. We undertook the colourful but rather arduous drive to Corbett NP - stopping off a couple of times  the journey took around 6 hours. The first roadside birds we noted were HOOPOE, 10+BLACK-SHOULDERED KITE, 10+WHITE-BREASTED KINGFISHER, 20+ ROSE-RINGED PARAKEEET, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, GREAT EGRET, 100’S CATTLE EGRET, 30+ BLACK DRONGO, 10+ PIED STARLING, 100’S BLACK KITES, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, 6 EGYPTIAN VULTURE, INDIAN HOUSE CROW, BANK & COMMON MYNA.

We arrived at Camp Forktail around 6:30PM had an evening curry, bottle of beer and sat around the campfire listening to the alarm calls of Sambar & Spotted Deer. Deprived of sleep for the last 20 hours and starting to feel the pinch, we were tucked up in our tent by 930PM.


OVERNIGHT AT CAMP FORKTAIL




DAY TWO: 20th December 2004Camp Forkatail0730 - 1000
Bhakrakhot, nr Forkatail1000 - 1300
Woodland east of campsite 1500 - 1730

The next morning we awoke around 6:45 as it was getting light, and we had an hours birding in the camp prior to breakfast. The first birds just outside the tent were a small group of BLACK-CHINNED BABBLERS, moments later we were gasping at a superb HIMALAYAN RUBYTHROAT it was sat motionless in a torpid state no doubt an affect of the cold dawn air. A full circuit of the campsite produced yet more excitement, the pick of birds being; 1 WHITE-THROATED FANTAIL, 3 LINEATED BARBET, 2 BLUE-THROATED BARBET, 10 SCARLET MINIVET, 1 BAR-WINGED FLYCATCHER SHRIKE & 2 GIANT HORNBILLS. The commonest birds around the campsite were clearly the HIMALAYAN BULBUL, ORIENTAL WHITEYE & ASHY PRINIA with groups of seen  in most of the areas.

Breakfast was shared with the resident GREY BUSHCHAT & JUNGLE BABBLERS, these hopped in and around the eating area.

After breakfast we decided to head north of the campsite, we walked up a path which passes through fields and the small village of Bhakrakhoot just beyond the village to the left  the village fields border the edge of some secondary forest. The fields and village produced PALE MARTIN, 2 LONG-BILLED PIPIT, 10 GREY TREEPIE, ORIENTAL TRUTLE DOVE, 5+ LONG-TAILED SHRIKE, BLACK-CRESTED BULBUL 4+, CRESTED TREE SWIFT, RED-HEADED VULTURE, 6 YELLOW-BREASTED GREENFINCH. The woodland edge  treated us some different species, 1 BLACK-LORED TIT, 2 GREY CAPPED PYGMY WOODPECKER, 2 LEMON RUMPED WARBELRS, 2 GREY H
OODED WARBLERS, YELLOW-BELLIED FANTAIL,1 FULVOUS BREASTED WOODPECKER, 2 VELVET-FRONTED NUTHATCH, 1M SLATY BLUE FLYCATCHER, & 1 COMMON IORA.

We headed back for lunch around 1.30PM. After a lazy lunch, Kunwar our guide suggested we bird the woodland to the east of the campsite an area he was very familiar with. The woodland here is on a steep hillside that eventually leads down to a stream that eventually meets the road. Several new species were added including a couple of “must see” species; 2+WHITE-CRESTED LAUGHING THRUSH, 2 ASHY BULBUL, 3 GOLDEN SPECTACLED WARBLER, 1 KALIJ PHEASANT, 2 SPOTTED FORKTAIL, SEV BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH, and after many minutes of waiting 1 CHESTNUT-HEADED TESIA




OVERNIGHT AT CAMP FORKTAIL ALL MEALS INCLUSIVE
Go to next page of trip report
Double click to edit
A TRIP REPORT TO NORTHERN INDIA XMAS 2004
Go to India Photo gallery